Martin H. Watson Family Tree

Fustian is a type of cloth believed to have originated in 2nd Century Egypt, at a place called Fustat. Fustian had a strong linen warp, and a cotton weft, a long lasting, lard wearing coarse twilled fabric with a slight nap.

Linen had been produced from the flax & hemp grown on every farm from way back; this was a 'cottage industry'. When cotton was first imported into London around 1600 basic fustians, with the lined warp and cotton weft, began to appear. Particularly around the Bolton / Blackburn area.

Fustian was also the old name for corduroy, a kind of cotton velvet. This basic cloth had extra looped wefts woven in as it was made. The rolls of cloth, 18-24 inches wide, were then sent to specialist fustian cutters. In a well lit room the cloth was pulled tight over benches up to 150 yards long and stretched with rollers at either end. The cutters would then insert a sharp knife like instrument with long guide into the loops, called a race (a tunnel of loops). The threads were cut with a sweeping movement as they walked the length of the cloth. This was similar to opening a letter with a knife but considerable dexterity and accuracy was needed. The cut wefts formed the pile. The cloth was then brushed to raise the pile.

https://www.themeister.co.uk/birchall/fustian_cutting.htm